In the heights of Saint-Joseph, in the Sud Sauvage region of Réunion, I discover a haven of tradition and passion: Far Far de Bézaves. Driven by Didier and his family, this agritourism site invites visitors to explore the wealth of Réunion’s agricultural heritage. Between vetiver cultivation, the discovery of local plants and Creole dishes, this morning promises an unforgettable immersion in rural Réunion.
A warm welcome.
As soon as I arrive, I’m welcomed with a big smile. The house, nestled in the heart of a lush, green farm, oozes with authenticity. Around a breakfast of local flavours – Réunion coffee, flavoured herbal teas and pastries – we start to chat in a friendly, gentle atmosphere.
A dive into the world of vetiver and local crops.
Following this appetiser, Didier passionately presents their main activity: cultivating and processing vetiver, mainly used to make traditional roofs. It’s captivating! Especially seeing as, today, I’ve learnt that this know-how is gradually disappearing: Didier is one of the last vetiver growers on the island of Réunion.
After this passionate tale, it’s time to visit the farm! Throughout the walk, I discover a lush orchard in which sugar cane, Victoria pineapple, papaya, turmeric, arrowroot, Bourbon pointu coffee and a host of other Réunionese treasures grow. Each plant has its own story, enthusiastically shared by Dider. Along the way, a beautiful sleeping creature lurks in the vegetation. This chameleon, an emblem of this intense island, reminds me of the wealth of Réunion’s biodiversity.
Arriving on a small peak offering some breathtaking views of the ocean, I take a moment to savour the panorama before joining the group in a vetiver field. Here, Didier offers me the chance to try my hand at cutting and cleaning the plant. This immersive experience allows me to better understand the patient work of the growers.
Intoxicating scents.
On the way back to the house, we stop in front of a large still – bearing witness to an age-old tradition passed down from generation to generation. Here, Didier and his family passionately distil the treasures of their garden to extract essential oils and other herbal distillates, including vetiver. Each drop contains the pure essence of the plants grown on site, in respect for traditions. Dider collects a little cup of base essential oil and, with just a drop on my finger, I instantly feel the full power of concentrated vetiver – an intense and captivating perfume that seems to carry the whole soul of the garden within it.
Reunionese craft workshop and aperitif.
Back to the house and it’s time to get crafting! Guided by my hosts, I make a scented vetiver ball, perfect as a closet or car air-freshener. I also discover a host of other treasures from the farm: herbal teas made with garden plants, blended rums in authentic flavours, homemade jars of chilli pepper and more.
Then, we’re served an aperitif in a real tribute to the flavours of Réunion: bonbons piments (pepper fritters), crispy samoussas and homemade refreshments made with flowers from the garden or vetiver. The blended rum, with sweet and spicy notes, goes down a treat. It’s in this warm atmosphere that Didier introduces us to the rhythms of local music as kayambs, djembes and triangles ring out in a joyous musical improvisation.
A Creole meal with local flavours.
Lunchtime arrives and I take a seat around a big, lively table. On the menu, we find a feast of péi flavours: sausage rougail and Creole cod curry, accompanied by rice, grains and salad. Each mouthful reveals the authenticity of the terroir, enhanced by our hosts’ know-how. A homemade dessert wraps up our meal with a touch of sweetness before it’s time to say goodbye.
An immersive and authentic family-friendly experience.
I also met Didier’s children. Whether on the farm, in the workshop or in the kitchen, they are all very involved in the family business. I’m moved to discover this adventure they have passionately taken on as a family.
This morning at Far Far de Bézaves is more than a simple tour: it’s a real dive into the soul of the Réunion terroir. An introduction to traditional know-how, gourmet tastings and moments of sharing make this experience a unique little getaway, as love for the land and a lively atmosphere come together with discovery and delight.