Follow me on a bike ride along the 5 Senses Trail, for a unique experience at Bras-Panon, a gem in the East of Reunion Island. You’ll get a complete overview of Reunion Island’s musical and culinary traditions, discover the art of weaving and learn all about vanilla.
A sensory adventure revolving around vanilla
Delighted to explore the East of Reunion Island and all its treasures, we head off for what promises to be an action-packed day. As soon as we arrive at the Pro Vanille Vanilla Cooperative of Bras-Panon, we’re warmly welcomed by Jahiro, our guide for the day. He invites us to gear up and get on our E-bikes. With our helmets and vests securely fastened, we start pedalling. What a joy it is to cycle in the cool morning air!
First stopover: a Creole breakfast to the sound of maloya music
Our first stop is at the Bras-Panon fairground, where we arrive to the sound of live music performed by the band Lindigo and members of the association ADP (Association Développement Proximité). The maloya beat instantly has us dancing and singing. We’re transported by the powerful voices of Olivier Araste* and the other Lindigo band members.
A bit of dancing has given us an appetite, so we enjoy our typical breakfast, served in a warm and friendly atmosphere. “Take a tray and help yourself. There’s risofé and ravages. These are ‘lontan’ tubers and vegetables, like breadfruit and sweet potatoes”, the association members tell us. “All the products are grown in the shared organic garden.” Once our trays are empty, we go to visit the garden, an opportunity to learn more about the plants, fruit and vegetables that grow on Reunion Island and are used in the local cuisine and traditional medicine. A pleasant moment spent with the members of the association ADP.
The artists then tell us more about maloya, Reunion Island’s traditional music and a legacy of the slaves that features in the UNESCO list of intangible cultural heritage of humanity. “Our maloya is 100% Bras-Panon style”, jokes the singer, who was born in this town. After listening, it’s time to give it a try, as we’re offered an enriching and amusing beginner’s lesson in the traditional maloya instruments and the dance.
Learning the art of vacoa weaving by the sea
After waving goodbye to our hosts and the artists, we get back on our E-bikes and cross the town of Bras-Panon to find ourselves quickly surrounded by sugarcane fields, all the way to the lush green, unspoilt shores of the East coast. It’s such a peaceful atmosphere! Here, in the shade of the screwpines, we learn to weave vacoa leaves from the ‘Pandanus Utilis’. The well-explained indications of our patient teachers guide us through this ancient art. Today, we’re learning to make a small vanilla basket. We gradually master the technique thanks to the expert advice of experienced weavers, as a cute little vacoa basket takes shape between our hands. We’re quite proud of ourselves!
A typically Creole lunch that gives pride of place to vanilla
Our third stop is at one of the iconic restaurants of Bras-Panon that participate in this experience by making vanilla the star of the menu. Even the aperitif is amazing, a beverage containing lemon, condensed milk and vanilla, a delight for the tastebuds. This is served with some spicy samosas, chilli bites and vegetable fritters. Truly scrumptious! Then come the main dishes, oozing with delicious flavour. We dip into the prawns sauted with vegetables and vanilla, then the chicken cari, one of the great classics of Reunion Island cuisine to which a few vanilla pods have also been added***. All of this is served with rice, seeds and spicy rougail, in keeping with the tradition of Reunion Island. For dessert, a caramelised flambéed banana with a scoop of vanilla ice cream provides a deliciously sweet finale to this typically Creole meal. We feel full… and happy! It’s a good thing we can work off our lunch during the bike ride to our next and final stop.
Unveiling the secrets of the black gold of Reunion Island at the Vanilla Cooperative
We round off our day packed with discoveries by visiting the Pro Vanille Vanilla Cooperative. An opportunity to learn more about this outstanding product. The moment we step onto the cooperative premises, the air is filled with an intoxicating vanilla aroma. The guides explain how vanilla is cultivated, from pollination of the flowers by hand to preparation of the pods to be exported across the world. It’s a fascinating tour! Our day of sensory experiences ends in a tasting session. Vanilla drinks, vanilla powder jelly and papaya & vanilla jam, all delicious!
* Presence of the singer, Olivier Araste, when his timetable permits (except during tour dates, showcase events, etc.)
** Service providers vary from week to week: Association Meti-tresse, Autour du Vacoa, L’Art de la Vannerie.
*** Service provided by different restaurants of Bras-Panon: the Midi-Panon restaurant, the Lodge d’Eden guesthouse, the farmhouse inn Chez Mme Annibal