Treasures made from Chouchou Straw

The first rays of the tropical sun are dancing through the green leaves in Hell-Bourg, the jewel in the crown of the Cirque de Salazie in eastern Réunion. This morning, I discovered a little-known and increasingly forgotten part of La Réunion’s heritage: traditional chouchou (chayote) straw plaiting, a craft activity offered by the Association Jeunesse & Loisirs (AJL).

Hell-Bourg, listed as one of the Most Beautiful Villages in France, reveals itself nestled in the heart of Réunion’s breathtaking scenery. I am surrounded by mountains, lush with greenery, their slopes covered with dense tropical vegetation, dotted with the distant waterfalls that make up the unique charm of the Cirque de Salazie.

A magical time spent at Jardin Kaf & La Grègue

At 9 a.m., I pass through the gates of Jardin Kaf & La Grègue, a landmark of this Réunion village. Vividly coloured bougainvilleas line the path, creating a natural backdrop with a typically Creole charm. Élodie and Marie-France welcome us with warm smiles, while Patrick, the host, starts to tell us about his two passions, Salazie and his iconic chouchou, straw made from the chayote plant.

Before the workshop begins, a tasting of Réunion’s specialities awaits us: tea flavoured with vanilla and cinnamon, a traditional sweet potato cake, and a quiche made with chouchou as prepared by the local gramounes, the fond nickname given to the island’s elders. Yes, the chouchou (chayote) in Réunion is braided, but above all, it’s eaten!

This convivial welcome is the very essence of the authentic Réunion experience. So I took the time to chat with our hosts and the other workshop participants about the Pei delicacies we’d been served!

Off to the fields!

Then it was time to roll up our sleeves: harvest time. Accompanied by Élodie and Marie-France, our chouchou ambassadors, I ventured into a “caro de chouchous”, the small patch of field where these iconic plants grow. I learn to pick the vines with my hands using the traditional ‘lontan’ methods of La Réunion, while my guides tell me the story of Hell-Bourg and its traditions. I took the opportunity to pick out the most beautiful vines as I went deeper into this surprising labyrinth of vegetation.

Chouchou straw, the silver-white ribbon

After the harvest, we return to the terrace to dive into the different stages of chayote straw processing. The preparation techniques are revealed: cutting, scraping, and blanching. To my surpise, my tools are… a butter knife and the sole of a flip-flop! Élodie and Marie-France explain each step and their passion is infectious. Fascinated by this ancestral craft, I transform these plant fibres into white and silver ribbons. Who says magic doesn’t exist? This is not just a workshop, it’s a journey to the heart of Réunionese tradition, a time for sharing, discovery and authenticity.

The art of straw plaiting revealed by passionate craftspeople

Élodie and Marie-France then enthusiastically and patiently introduce me to the delicate art of plaiting the straw. Although I won’t be launching my own market stall next month, I quickly become absorbed in this captivating and meticulous ancient Réunion craft that has been handed down from generation to generation for centuries.

As a diligent student, I succeeded, step by step, in creating a fine braid of chouchou straw thanks to the careful guidance given by two expert weavers. And I leave with an elegant bookmark as a souvenir of this unique workshop. With a great deal of practice and time, Réunion’s craftspeople make their own baskets, hats, bertels (Réunion’s small rucksacks) and earrings.

A workshop with a warm, authentic atmosphere

After these few hours spent in the company of Élodie, Marie-France and Patrick, I truly feel as if I’ve shared a real slice of local Réunionese life. Not only did I discover the forgotten art of straw plaiting, but I also learned from enthusiasts who are eager to share their love of this craft, to meet and talk to new people and to put their guests at ease. This is a real immersion in Réunionese culture, simple and authentic.