Musical cabaret from highlands

The largest cabaret in the highlands

Today we’re off to the Plaine des Cafres for a cultural and culinary experience on the heights of Reunion Island. Our special hosts? The members of a local group who play traditional Reunion Island music and are well-known for their overflowing energy and their deep affection for the island’s culture.

A moment of togetherness in the cool mountains of Reunion Island

We arrive to a warm and friendly welcome on the doorstep by Pat’Jaune. Straight away, I notice their typical outfits, felt hats and wide braces. They speak to each of the guests and lead us inside the cabaret inn.

We walk past the stage to reach the dining room. The place feels like a mountain chalet but with a Reunion Island touch. In the paintings on the wall, I recognise the group members and the typical Creole craftsmanship. The guests get settled as the Pat’Jaune members flit between the tables taking care of the service. The other diners are a mix of couples and families. The atmosphere immediately feels warm and friendly.

Our gourmet experience in Pat’Jaune country begins with some delicious Creole appetizers: crispy samosas and chilli bites with just the right quantity of spice. These are served with a choice of punch* or fresh fruit juice.

‘Yab’-style humour and music of Reunion Island

The group members then invite us to pursue the experience with a musical interlude in the cabaret area. The very first notes plunge us straight into their unique musical world. A varied ensemble of instruments plays catchy tunes that accompany a mix of old-world dances like the waltz, polka, strathspey and square dance, with an added sega beat. All in a harmony of guitar, double bass and percussion.

I also pay close attention to the lyrics, sung in the local Creole with a lovely melodic accent. The songs offer a spirited and humorous description of the life of the Yabs, the name given to the ‘little white people’ of the Reunion Island mountains. “And do you know why we’re called Pat’Jaune?”, asks Michel. “It’s a nickname for people who work in the production of péi saffron, a local name for turmeric. That’s what makes their feet yellow.” We find ourselves singing in unisson, “Un chouchou dans mon gamelle ek piment z’hirondelle”, smiling all over our faces.

The ‘zarboutan’, a Reunion Island tradition

The jokes and wordplay have us laughing out loud as we learn more about the story behind this merry troupe from the Plaine des Cafres, who got together in 1987. Initially formed by the three Gonthier brothers, Michel, François and Bernard, the group become a quartet when Claudine Tarby arrived in 2000. Following the death of Claudine, Pat’Jaune decided to continue performing and the troupe was joined by two new faces, Linda and Loïc. Pat’Jaune delivers a unique performance in an intimate show that gets the spectators involved.

A typically Creole meal

The songs and audience interaction are in full swing as the smells wafting from the kitchen become more and more mouthwatering. It’s time for the main dish, or rather dishes! We’re seated around a table packed with food. The chicken cari and rougail of andouillette have simmered over a wood fire in the purest of Reunion Island traditions. Served with rice, lima beans and a delicious tomato rougail, these Creole dishes are a real feast. Delicious! Ludovic and his kitchen staff are truly masters of the great classics of Reunion Island gastronomy.

After a last musical interlude with emotional moments that include a moving tribute to Claudine Tarby, we round off this fabulous experience with an excellent chocolate fondant cake. We take the time to savour every crumb and, before we know it, we’re saying goodbye to our hosts and thanking them for this authentic experience in the mountains of Reunion Island.

*Alcohol abuse is dangerous for your health. Drink in moderation.